COVID: TRAVEL TROUBLEMAKER
My quarantine was spent here.
“it’s positive.”
With those two words, my plan to return to the United States early the next morning was smashed.
DESTINATIONS
Part 6: TRAVELER DISCOVERIES OF SOUTHSIDE ITALY’S ANCIENT ORIGINS – SORRENTO
Growing cactus must be one of the reasons there are so many varieties in Southern Italy.
In Part 5, we discovered Lecce Baroque is an attitude as much as an architectural style and that certified organic wines go down easily with a farm-to-table fresh meal wonderfully prepared.
The last city on this two-week Odysseys Unlimited tour of Sicily and Southern Italy came sooner than it seemed possible. That’s the way it is with all vacations, I expect, but sometimes the days melt faster into the next depending on activities and on the group’s personal dynamics. This 18-member group has been exceptionally harmonious, so the shared experiences have flashed by. Nonetheless, we are headed to Sorrento, a city Russ and I visited with Odysseys four years ago. Then we had mere hours in Sorrento, but an unmistakable allure demanded a lengthier stay.
Part 5: TRAVELER DISCOVERIES OF SOUTHSIDE ITALY’S ANCIENT ORIGINS – LECCE
Lecce Baroque styling means artistic flourishes carved in white limestone.
In Part 4, we discovered conical roofs of flat rocks not bound with mortar can be quite useful to thwart a King’s taxman and in today’s market, bring in the big bucks.
what we learned:
Barocco leccese is an ornate artistic style developed in Lecce and in Terra d’Otranto allegedly between the second half of the 16th century and the end of the 17th. It was developed as a thanks to God for protecting Christianity from the Ottomans. Lecce Baroque style leaves no empty spaces. The thinking was that empty space lets in the Devil. The 2,000-year-old city is considered the “Florence of the South” for the breadth of the fanciful designs of human figures, flowers, and animals carved in white limestone materials encouraged by Charles V, King of Spain, instead of the marble used in Naples. In Lecce, elaborate corbels appear under railings. Classical sculptures of women line the sides of doorways. The point of Baroque design is to wow!
Part 4: TRAVELER DISCOVERIES OF SOUTHSIDE ITALY’S ANCIENT ORIGINS -ALBEROBELLO
An abandoned castle on the side of the road in Apulia.
In Part 3, we traversed the crooked, uneven narrow roads of Matera’s Sassi area, finding a history steeped in ancient religions, superstitions, and a reluctance even now to live comfortably under the watchful eye of UNESCO and tourism.
Once again, Italy’s unfinished road system causes our bus driver to weave a meandering path along main highways and back roads towards our next destination, the Apulia (or Puglia) region, which forms the heel of Italy’s boot shape. Apulia, which means “land without rain” has a population of about four million. The economy is based on industry and agriculture, with tomatoes the chief moneymaker. Want the best mozzarella and burrata cheeses? Come to Apulia. The region is home to Bari, a port and university town, Lecce (known as the (“Florence of the South”), and Alberobello, home to another type of unique architecture that is a far cry from Matera’s Sassi caves.
Part 3: TRAVELER DISCOVERIES OF SOUTHSIDE ITALY’S ANCIENT ORIGINS – MATERA
A one € house might be yours.
In Part 2, we explored the historic Valley of the Temples in Agrigento and hiked on Mt. Etna. We also enjoyed sumptuous meals near both those famous landmarks.
We left the island of Sicily for the mainland region of Basilicata, Italy, aboard a 20-minute ferry that docked in Villa San Giovanni, Calabria. Calabria (old Italy) means “place of the bull.” Ninety percent of Calabria is mountainous.
Enroute to Matera, a city of growing fascination the more we learned, we pass by isolated run-down buildings along the road called “one Euro properties.” That’s the price anyone can pay to own one of these crumbling, likely medieval times-built homes. Here’s the backstory. Small villages desperately need restoration of abandoned homes that might entice new residents. However, remaining villagers are likely impoverished and unable to tackle repairs of a second home. Anyone can apply to buy one of those homes for one € with the pledge to restore it to historical accuracy. Applicant must also commit to five – 10 years ownership (depending on the area) but is not required to live there year-round. The property must remain a personal home and cannot be turned into a B&B or other money-making business. Not caring which homes qualified for a one € sale did not stop our 18-member tour group from pointing out luxury homes for the remainder of the two-week trip and yelling out, “One € house.”
Part 2: TRAVELER DISCOVERIES OF SOUTHSIDE ITALY’S ANCIENT ORIGINS – TAORMINA continued
View of the coastline from Parco Florence Trevelyan, the public gardens that began as a private park.
In Part 1, we survived an arduous journey to Taormina for the first leg of our two-week Sicily-Southern Italy tour. We learned about the city’s discovery, its shames (eliminating Jews), and folklore stories woven into today’s culture, from pinecones to pottery heads of planted basil.
what we did:
At the top of the pedestrian-only hill from our hotel, Eurostars Monte Tauro, is the serenely peaceful Parco Florence Trevelyan. The beautiful public gardens were originally created as a private park by Lady Florence Trevelyan Cacciola, a Scottish noblewoman married to the mayor. She styled her sanctuary as a typical English garden with an infusion of colorful varieties of flowers and plants from all over the world, but it was her passion for ornithology (bird watching) that inspired many of the park’s fanciful brick structures. The one most used as a backdrop for photos is called “The Beehives”. Taormina’s government now maintains the quiet manicured respite overlooking Mt. Etna and the coastline.
TRAVELER DISCOVERIES OF SOUTHSIDE ITALY’S ANCIENT ORIGINS
Looking at Positano as we pass by the bus.
The last time I was in Italy, I did exactly as the 1954 romantic comedy Roman Holiday encouraged. I tossed a coin into Trevi Fountain, assuring my return to Rome. Unfortunately, the movie had the ritual backwards. You stand with your back to the fountain and toss the coin over your right shoulder (where the angels sit), not your left as the movie depicted and which is where Italian Catholics believe the Devil sits. Tossing over your left shoulder might mark your return with misfortune. Maybe that’s why on this trip to Italy
Part 6: ALPINE ADVENTURES EXCEED EXPECTATIONS – MUNICH, GERMANY
Russ really lost his head over this accordionist!
In Part 5: Mozart brought music to the world, The Sound of Music rang in our heads, and the Eagle’s Nest reminded us of the destruction that greed, hatred, and supreme power can enable.
Munich is the capital of Bavaria. There are roughly one-and-a-half million people living in the city, who proudly have their own nationalistic dialect, and think of themselves as from München Bavaria, not Germany. Munich is known for its beer, Oktoberfest celebrations, museums, and international companies like the headquarters of BMW.
Where we stayed:
Eurostars Book Hotel must have been designed for people like me: readers and/or writers whose imaginations propel their lives. From the first moment we stepped inside Read more
Part 5: ALPINE ADVENTURES EXCEED EXPECTATIONS – SALZBURG, AUSTRIA and BERCHTESGADEN, GERMANY
Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was born here.
In Part 4: Neither the Prince of Liechtenstein or Heidi was around so instead we visited a mountain in Innsbruck and a centuries-old museum of Tyrolean farms.
SALZBURG, AUSTRIA
Where we stayed:
Imlauer Hotel Pitter Salzburg has been owned by the Pitter family since 2007. The hotel was renovated in 2014. It has a beer cellar and Imlauer Sky – Bar & Restaurant rooftop restaurant. The buffet was diverse and carries many regional dishes. Staff was friendly and professional.
What we saw:
One of my grandfathers was from Salzburg (which means salt fortress), so I was Read more
Part 4: ALPINE ADVENTURES EXCEED EXPECTATIONS – LIECHTENSTEIN and AUSTRIA
Vineyard near Heidiland (Maienfeld) in Switzerland.
MAIENFELD, SWITZERLAND (OR HEIDILAND TO DEVOTEES!)
In Part 3: A toe dip into Stresa, Italy and a relaxing cruise around Lugano, Switzerland that explored many ancient and diverse communities.
Before leaving Switzerland behind and crossing into Vaduz, the capital of Liechtenstein, we stopped in the border town of Maienfeld, Switzerland. For such a small area, Majenfeld holds two great distinctions of world import.
It’s the birthplace of Heidi, a story written in 1881 by Johanna Spyri. The story may have been a work of fiction, but try telling that to the international tourists who flock here to visit a theme park-like area called Heidiland to see Read more
Part 3: ALPINE ADVENTURES EXCEED EXPECTATIONS – STRESA, ITALY and SWISS COMMUNITIES OF LUGANO, BELLIZONA, ASCONA, MARCOTE and GANDRIA
Driving through the Simplon Pass connecting Italy and Switzerland.
In Part 2: A relaxing boat ride and two cogwheel trains later, we’d risen over 10,000 feet to gape at the Matterhorn.
We took a toe dip into Italy before re-entering Switzerland, where we would be staying in Lugano for a few days. I say a toe dip because we left the mountains briefly for Stresa, Italy, an internationally acclaimed resort town snuggled up to Lake Maggiore, and because similar to a toe dip, we weren’t invested in full immersion.
Before arriving in Stresa, we took a roadside pause on the Simplon Pass, where Napoleon had constructed a road Read more
Part 2: ALPINE ADVENTURES EXCEED EXPECTATIONS – ZERMATT
View on our ferry ride to Andermatt.
In Part 1: Trains, boats, a fierce storm atop Mount Pilatus… and this was just the beginning of the tour!
On our way to a boat ride that was part of the day’s transportation to Zermatt, the alpine city from which many mountaineers venture to tackle the Matterhorn, we bussed through the small village of Vegas, where once Russian composer Sergei Vasilyevich Rachmaninoff lived. The gentle one-hour 45-minute minute journey on Lake Lucerne aboard the Flüelen ferry began in Vitznau, which also has the oldest cogwheel train still running. Lake Read more
Part 1: ALPINE ADVENTURES EXCEED EXPECTATIONS – LUCERNE
The scenic natural beauty of Switzerland.
It was the trains that did it.
The idea of trains snaking slowly up to mountain peaks 7,000 feet or higher along ancient cogwheel tracks exhilarated my any-excuse-to-take-a-train husband, Russ. My stomach roiled pondering multiple train rides chugging along steep inclines, thinking about how I got nervous even holding onto the railing on the Empire State Building’s upper floor and tried looking down. He buttered me up about taking the Odysseys Unlimited Alpine Splendor tour by painting a picture of the scenic beauty we’d encounter in five countries: Switzerland, Austria, Italy, Liechtenstein, and Germany. By then, I remembered we’ve climbed glaciers and volcanos, ridden cable cars up 5,000 feet, and never once did I pass out in fright. My fears morphed into anticipation.
Ride along with me on this soaring Alpine Adventure which concluded with an extension trip to Read more
Part 5: SOUTHERN FRENCH CONNECTION: ART, FOOD and WINE
A painting by Paul Cezanne.
In Part 4, we saw how Vincent Van Gogh’s art was impacted by his mental issues, how mountaintop former castles and fortresses continue to “live,” and how the idyllic beauty of Southern France country landscapes inspire paintings.
Aix-en-Provence
It was a reality jolt to spend days roaming gentle villages of country folk living high in ancient fortresses and then to find oneself in the thriving urban city of Aix-en-Provence. We strolled along Cours Mirabeau, a wide, tree-lined thoroughfare, explored the Old Town, and took in the artistic drumbeat left by Artist Paul Cezanne, born here in 1839 and who Read more
Part 4: SOUTHERN FRENCH CONNECTION: ART, FOOD & WINE
Shopping at the farmer market.
In Part 3, we cruised down the Canal du Midi in a barge, cooked a full-course meal in a 5-star French hotel’s cooking school, and learned that Vincent Van Gogh left his impressions on more than canvas.
SAINT-REMY-DE-PROVENCE, LES-BAUX-DE-PROVENCE, ISLE-SUR-LA-SORGUE and ROUSSILLON
One of the absolute delights of this Southern France trip was getting to visit (albeit too briefly) small mountainside medieval villages on day excursions. We were lodging in Aix-en-Provence. Each village brimmed with the flavors of France, from fresh bags of lavender to nutty confections of nougat, to the flower-potted window sills that crowded narrow passageways within the former fortress rock walls. The air was fresh from mountain breezes. The views of multi-hued fields Read more
Part 3: SOUTHERN FRENCH CONNECTION: ART, FOOD and WINE
The locks at Canal du Midi
In Part 2, the journey took us to Figueres, Spain to explore Surrealist Salvadore Dali’s Theatre-Museum, to the seaside city of Collioure immortalized by paintings of André Derain, Henri Matisse and Pablo Picasso, and to the quiet beauty of Perpignan.
CANAL DU MIDI, AVIGNON and ARLES
On our way to stay in Arles and to visit Avignon, we paused for a morning excursion on the famed Canal du Midi.
CANAL DU MIDI
The slow steady pace of cruising down the 150-mile-long 17th century-constructed Canal du Midi in a flat-bottomed barge was one of the most relaxing aspects of the two-week Odysseys Unlimited tour thus far. Originally named the Canal Royal en Languedoc in 1681 when completed by Pierre-Paul Riquet, it was renamed by French revolutionaries to Canal Read more
Part 2: SOUTHERN FRENCH CONNECTION: ART, FOOD and WINE
Hollywood Oscar-like figurines repose in niches at Dali’s Theatre-Museum
In Part 1, our journey began in Albi before exploring the medieval city of Carcassonne and then the Abbaye Fontroide in Narbonne.
FIGUERES (SPAIN), COLLIOURE and PERPIGNAN
Where we stayed:
La Villa Duflot sits in a three-acre park with olive and palm trees. The hotel’s site says it has just 24-rooms, but it is apparent they have added many more than that. We had to walk outside the hotel’s lobby to reach our room in a first-floor wing. The hotel is styled after an Italian villa, although the décor was more Art Deco. The dining room in the evening is Read more
Part 1: SOUTHERN FRENCH CONNECTION: ART, FOOD and WINE
Idyllic Southern France countryside
Art. Food. Wine.
Those were the three words that drew my husband, Russ, and I to book our two-week tour to Southern France, the Languedoc and Provence regions. Russ expected this tour would be a bit more laid back than our previous Odysseys Unlimited tours, though sometimes we still felt as if we were racing against time to cram in as many cultural experiences as we could before our weary bodies collapsed. That’s not a complaint, by the way… just the reality of not wanting to miss out Read more
Part 7-EASTERN EUROPE: STRUDEL, SCHNITZEL AND STRAUSS, A FEW OF OUR FAVORITE THINGS
A Memorial column.
Part 6 was Tourists Invade Prague, The City of Concerts, Castles and Korunas
GERMANY
BERLIN REFLECTS THE PAST AS IT MARCHES FORWARD
While our two-week Odysseys Unlimited Discovering Eastern Europe tour focused on cities from which my ancestors had originated, our tour company’s arranged non-guided extension trip to Berlin, Germany at least landed us in the same country from which many of Russ’ family had dwelled. Seven of our tour group faced one another on a four-hour train ride from Read more
Part 6-EASTERN EUROPE: STRUDEL, SCHNITZEL AND STRAUSS, A FEW OF OUR FAVORITE THINGS
Ballroom in the Grand Bohemia Praha, where the Mozart dinner concert is held.
Part 5 was Slovakia, Once Again!
CZECH REPUBLIC
TOURISTS INVADE PRAGUE, THE CITY OF CONCERTS, CASTLES AND KORUNAS
Where we stayed:
The 78-room Grand Bohemia Praha is tucked neatly onto a side street within walking distance of famous attractions such as the Old Town Square, Old Town Hall, and Wenceslas Square.
Our room was a triangle, which seemed to make it feel larger. One thing did surprise me. I was startled while in the restroom to hear voices so loud I thought someone had entered our cute but efficient guestroom. Turns out there are speakers from the TV in the restroom so you never have to miss a single word! Breakfast was wonderful, an endless buffet of fresh breads, fruits, and prepared dishes, plus bottles of bubbly wine and a selection of juices to mix or drink separate. Russ and I did not attend Read more
Part 5-EASTERN EUROPE: STRUDEL, SCHNITZEL AND STRAUSS, A FEW OF OUR FAVORITE THINGS
Looking at the UFO Restaurant across from Hotel Devin in Bratislava.
Part 4 was The Music and Muses of Vibrant Vienna
SLOVAKIA, once again!
BRATISLAVA
Yes, I have spoken about Slovakia, but only when our intrepid group of travelers paused for lunch on our way from Poland to Hungary in Part 3-EASTERN EUROPE: STRUDEL, SCHNITZEL AND STRAUSS, A FEW OF OUR FAVORITE THINGS;
Breakfast in Poland, Lunch in Slovakia and Dinner in Hungary. This time we departed Austria and headed for the Czech Republic, stopping for the night in Bratislava, the world’s only capital to share borders Read more
Part 4-EASTERN EUROPE: STRUDEL, SCHNITZEL AND STRAUSS, A FEW OF OUR FAVORITE THINGS
A stately building in Vienna.
Part 3 was Breakfast in Poland, Lunch in Slovakia and Dinner in Hungary
AUSTRIA
THE MUSIC AND MUSES OF VIBRANT VIENNA
Where we stayed:
The Hilton Vienna Plaza didn’t have the same startling views of the Danube River as our Hilton Budapest did, but it did have Alpine tap water so crystal clear that we forewent drinking bottled. Our room was quite lovely, with marble streaks of two-toned greys, a workable desk with a comfortable study desk chair and a divan instead of a lounge chair. Location Read more
Part 3-EASTERN EUROPE: STRUDEL, SCHNITZEL AND STRAUSS, A FEW OF OUR FAVORITE THINGS
Our welcoming sight to Budapest, Hungary is the House of Parliament Building
BREAKFAST IN POLAND, LUNCH IN SLOVAKIA AND DINNER IN HUNGARY
Part 2 was From Concentration Camps to Trendy Kraków
Only one road connects Poland with Hungary, and you have to drive through Slovakia to do it. The narrow, exceedingly bumpy road was under reconstruction so traffic barely crawled. It did give us time to peruse the beauty of the Tatra Mountains, popular for winter sports. What I noticed is that the Slovakian houses we passed all have sloped, peaked roofs to prevent snow from mounting. Flower boxes hang from balconies and even with a typically brief summer season (though not true this year Read more
Part 2-EASTERN EUROPE: STRUDEL, SCHNITZEL AND STRAUSS, A FEW OF OUR FAVORITE THINGS
FROM CONCENTRATION CAMPS TO TRENDY KRAKÓW
Part 1 was The Razing and Rebuilding of Warsaw
I grew up with the horror stories of the Holocaust, from family whispers to the stacks of books I devoured. (I can’t count how many versions of The Diary of Anne Frank I have read or seen acted.) Just knowing our Odysseys Unlimited tour included a visit to Auschwitz (known in German as Oswiecim) and its nearby sub-camp, Birkenau, made me edgy. We were travelling to Kraków, but the visit to the camps were scheduled for the earlier part of the day. Could I handle seeing the reality which has heretofore only been personal stories or movies?
Trainloads of prisoners would arrive here at Birkenau
I propelled myself forward and listened attentively to the statistics of how many were killed, how many survived, and why it has been a Polish government project to preserve the camps and their wretched history. I shuddered when we passed by a gas chamber, held my breath when we entered barracks that still echoes the misery of their cramped, emaciated inhabitants, and Read more
Part 1-EASTERN EUROPE: STRUDEL, SCHNITZEL AND STRAUSS, A FEW OF OUR FAVORITE THINGS
Spinach strudel, boiled potatoes, sausages and more at Café Museum in Vienna, Austria
Strudel, Schnitzel and Strauss weren’t all that grabbed our attention about Eastern Europe, but they were certainly components of the rich cultural influences food, wine, music, arts, and architecture played during our recent Odysseys Unlimited Discovering Eastern Europe tour. The trip evoked memories of our ancestry.
Yiddish was the language my grandparents, aunts and uncles spoke when they didn’t want me to understand the conversation. English was the rule otherwise. How often did I hear them say, “We are now Americans. We speak English.”
My parents were first-born Americans from parents who fled Poland, Romania and the Austro-Hungarian Empire in the early 1900s. Even as the eldest of my parent’s three children, I didn’t know to ask why they fled their native countries or how Read more
Part 6: GONDALIERS DON’T SING AND NO ITALIAN WEDDING SOUP? A FIRST-TIMER’S DISCOVERY OF THE REAL ITALY.
St. Mark’s Square and colorful buildings line Venice’s Grand Canal
GONDOLIERS DON’T SING BUT VENICE STILL EVOKES ROMANCE
In Part 5 – The Classical Beauty Of Tuscany, The Elegance Of Florence And San Gimignano’s Tall Towers
VENICE
Where we stayed:
The Carnival Palace Hotel, opened in 2012, overlooks the Cannaregio Canal in the heart of historic downtown Venice. The modern 67 room hotel is not in the midst of tourist traffic, so if you want to venture to St Marks, museums and art galleries, you either have a very long walk or you can easily take a water bus from a station just a short distance away. The hotel buffet was diverse, with a vegan brioche I mistakenly took for a wheat croissant until I bit down into its soft, buttery texture. These were so amazing I ate them every morning for four days. Russ and I and several Read more
Part 5: GONDALIERS DON’T SING AND NO ITALIAN WEDDING SOUP? A FIRST-TIMER’S DISCOVERY OF THE REAL ITALY.
View from Villa San Fillippo
THE CLASSICAL BEAUTY OF TUSCANY, THE ELEGANCE OF FLORENCE AND SAN GIMIGNANO’S TALL TOWERS
Part 4 was Medieval City Faced Chemical Warfare And Peace Makers Wage War Against Poverty In Orvieto And Assisi
SIENA, FLORENCE and SAN GIMIGNANO
Where we stayed:
Villa San Filippo is an 18th century 35-room resort in the Chianti hills, in Barberino Val D’Elsa. Russ and I stayed in a magnificent suite that opened up to a dining and kitchen area, tiled floors, and a step down to the bathroom and luxuriously appointed bedroom. A comfy chair positioned in front of a large window and balcony in the living room afforded spectacular views of the lush Tuscan landscape Read more
Part 4: GONDALIERS DON’T SING AND NO ITALIAN WEDDING SOUP? A FIRST-TIMER’S DISCOVERY OF THE REAL ITALY
Welcome to the medieval town of Orvieto
MEDIEVAL CITY FACED CHEMICAL WARFARE AND PEACE MAKERS WAGE WAR AGAINST POVERTY IN ORVIETO AND ASSISI
Part 3 was The Power Of Prayer And Governments Ruled Montecassino And Rome
ORVIETO, ASSISI and DERUTA
Where we stayed:
You couldn’t ask for a better central location to unpack your bags than the Grand Hotel Italia when staying in Orvieto, a medieval city built atop a volcanic butte that lies between Florence and Rome. There were inconsistencies in the water pressure, the WIFI drifted in and out, but the staff of the 46-room property did their best to make us comfortable, even to turning on the hotel-wide AC earlier than they’re used to in the season. The morning buffet was just ok, but one of the first lessons to be learned Read more
Part 3: GONDALIERS DON’T SING AND NO ITALIAN WEDDING SOUP? A FIRST-TIMER’S DISCOVERY OF THE REAL ITALY.
Michelangelo’s Pieta in St. Peter’s Basiilica
THE POWER OF PRAYER AND GOVERNMENTS RULED ROME
Part 2 was the Sex, Lives And Jewelry Of Pompeii And Sorrento
ROME
Where we stayed:
I never tire of staying in former palaces converted to hotels. One such converted palace to hotel is the 110-room Empire Palace Hotel in Rome, originally built in 1879. Room sizes vary a lot. The floor and walls in our room and bathroom were marble. The shower wonderfully easy to operate, an appreciation you won’t understand unless you have used showers that require a pilot’s license for all the buttons and controls. The pillows were flat and hard. Downstairs, the onsite Blue Bar is a cozy venue with live music in the evening. Warning: when hotel signs indicate breakfast ends at 10:30, they do not mean a minute longer. The hotel is Read more
Part 2: GONDALIERS DON’T SING AND NO ITALIAN WEDDING SOUP? A FIRST-TIMER’S DISCOVERY OF THE REAL ITALY.
Seated man frozen in ash at Pompeii
SEX, LIVES AND JEWELRY OF POMPEII AND SORRENTO
Part 1 was The Magnificent Sights And Sounds Of Amalfi And Ravello
POMPEII, SORRENTO and MONTECASSINO
Watching one of many fictionalized movies about the destruction of Pompeii and Herculaneum in 79 AD when Mount Vesuvius erupted does not adequately impart the swift horror that befall the populace. Vesuvius has since erupted nearly 30 more times, the last being March 17, 1944. Considered one of the most dangerously active volcanos in the world, it’s scary to know it sits only about 20 miles from the city of Naples. Estimates are that as many as 30,000 residents may have been “frozen in place” under ash in 79 AD. An eruption today might cause as many as Read more
GONDALIERS DON’T SING AND NO ITALIAN WEDDING SOUP? A FIRST-TIMER’S DISCOVERY OF THE REAL ITALY.
St Mark’s Square & the Doge’s Palace on Venice’s Grand Canal
Part 1 – THE MAGNIFICANT SIGHTS AND SOUNDS OF AMALFI AND RAVELLO
Pizza, pasta and gelato. Wines that never reach America. Mythological gods and goddesses. Warring religious and political leaders. Artists, sculptors and architects whose works still breathe life into a people, country and tourism-driven economy.
Stunning landscapes of contrasting colors, from the foam-tipped whites of the sea crushing against jagged rocks of the Amalfi Coast to the neon yellow of the lemon tree-studded mountains of Ravello; from
- Boar’s head sits in oaken bucket. Otherwise, a typical wine and food shop within stone walls of medieval town
DENMARK & NORWAY: ROYALLY RICH IN BREATHTAKING BEAUTY, FROM CASTLES TO FJORDS
PART 5: OSLO, A CULTURAL METROPOLIS FOR MUSEUMS, ARTS, FABULOUS FOOD, THE NOBEL PEACE PRIZE, AND SO MUCH MORE!
Polar ship Fram
In PART 4: THE TROLL’S DAUGHTER DANCES, WATERFALLS PLUNGE, AND THERE’S SALMON… LOTS AND LOTS OF SALMON! We have left behind the jutting mountains, roaring waterfalls, and orchards planted on sloping hills like grapevines for the country’s largest city.
OSLO translates to Field of the Gods. It is a city undergoing vast urban revitalization.
Where we stayed:
Travellers of all shapes find their way to Thon Hotel Opera
Thon Hotel Opera is a convenient location that will become even more advantageous when the Oslo Opera House opens half a block away in 2019. Right now, the 480-room hotel is ideal for its location to shopping, restaurants and attractions, but what is particularly ideal is its Read more
DENMARK & NORWAY: ROYALLY RICH IN BREATHTAKING BEAUTY, FROM CASTLES TO FJORDS
PART 4: THE TROLL’S DAUGHTER DANCES, WATERFALLS PLUNGE, AND THERE’S SALMON… LOTS AND LOTS OF SALMON!
In PART 3: STEPPING INTO THE FAIRY TALE WORLD THAT IS NORWAY–GOAT FARMS, SKI RESORTS, FJORDS AND WHITE-KNUCKLE MOUNTAIN ROADS, we visited one of Norway’s most dramatic fjords, dined at a goat farm, and mellowed to the music of Composer Edvard Grieg.
The pastoral elegance of Lofthus
We leave Bergen, the second largest city in Norway, for the serene pastoral elegance of Lofthus, a city in Norway’s Fjord District. Small farms and villages tuck onto mountainsides. Slopes embrace sparkling fjords. Wild flowers grow haphazardly, creating a landscape of emotionally-charged blues, whites, greens, yellows and pinks. This is the Norway of picture postcards, of a place where time has paused to let one breathe crisp clean air and soak in the relentless natural beauty.
Lofthus
Where we stayed:
Over the bridge and to the water-surrounded decking at Hotel Ullensvang
Hotel Ullensvang may be one of the most beautiful resorts at which my husband Russ and I have ever stayed. From the moment we enter the Read more
DENMARK & NORWAY: ROYALLY RICH IN BREATHTAKING BEAUTY, FROM CASTLES TO FJORDS
PART 3: STEPPING INTO THE FAIRY TALE WORLD THAT IS NORWAY–GOAT FARMS, SKI RESORTS, FJORDS AND WHITE-KNUCKLE MOUNTAIN ROADS
a private wedding and event center, in Oslofjord
In PART 2: DANISH ROYALTY– FROM THE QUEEN’S RESIDENCE TO HAMLET’S CASTLE TO KAREN BLIXEN’S SANCTUARY, reminders of Denmark’s history thrive today in castles, heroic citizens and the Arts.
We stepped onto the Pearl Seaways, an 1800-passenger cruise liner that masquerades as a ferry, in Copenhagen, Denmark and stepped off in Oslo, Norway. If our Odysseys Unlimited tour group of 24 had been awake during the overnight journey, we’d have seen some of the islands and landmarks along Norway’s 1,100-mile coastline.
Over the next 10 days Tour Director Karin Hansen led us by bus on hairpin mountain roads to gaze Read more
DENMARK & NORWAY: ROYALLY RICH IN BREATHTAKING BEAUTY, FROM CASTLES TO FJORDS
PART 2: DANISH ROYALTY– FROM THE QUEEN’S RESIDENCE TO HAMLET’S CASTLE TO KAREN BLIXEN’S SANCTUARY.
a classic building in Copenhagen
In PART 1: VIKINGS DID NOT HAVE HORNS ON THEIR HELMETS, we began our three week trip by spending a week in Denmark, with a brief foray into Germany, with friends.
Copenhagen is a worldly metropolis without pretensions, much like the royal family who are called by their first names, or the 50% of the population who daily commute by bicycle and think nothing of leaning them unlocked against a building wall.
Fashion styles are typically in muted colors and casually sophisticated. Furniture has smooth, clean lines. People are friendly, direct, no-nonsense and unfailingly obey traffic lights. Healthcare for citizens is free, but the taxes are among the highest in the world. Open-faced sandwiches, herring, and Vienna Read more
DENMARK & NORWAY: ROYALLY RICH IN BREATHTAKING BEAUTY, FROM CASTLES TO FJORDS
The Viking Museum in Roskilde
PART 1: VIKINGS DID NOT HAVE HORNS ON THEIR HELMETS
Plunging waterfalls descending from steep rocky mountain walls and glacial gray splashing water into deep shimmery fjords of Norway are not photo-shopped by travel magazines.
Danish pastries are actually called Vienna bread in Denmark, and contrary to belief, they are not one of the country’s better known exports. Bacon is.
Pretty much everyone in Denmark and Norway speaks better English than many Americans.
Scandinavian countries take great care to preserve their heritage, architecture, and cultural norms.
Those are just some of the truisms my husband and I learned during our week’s stay in Denmark Read more
PART 4: SPAIN AND PORTUGAL: HOW CENTURIES OF RELIGIOUS BATTLES LED TO ARCHITECTURAL WONDERS, SAVVY CUISINE, FRAGRANT WINES, AND THE HEROICS OF WHICH NOVELS ARE WRITTEN
MADRID, BARCELONA AND TIPS FOR TRAVELLERS
In Part 3, Churches were once Mosques and Synagogues, Novelists pay homage to Spain’s bullfighters and castles, Tapas tantalizes and Flamenco fiery passions ignite.
Spain rolls out the welcome mat
Madrid was the last stop of our guided Odyssey Tour. For five of the 10 couples, our next stop was Barcelona, a three-day tour extension. Odyssey arranged our transportation to the airport from Madrid to Barcelona and had a local guide waiting to escort us to our final hotel. Transportation was also arranged to take us to the airport for our journey home.
Downtown Spain, where many buildings have sculptures decorating the skylines.
Where we stayed: Wellington Hotel, an old-world property near some of Spain’s luxury shopping. Many of the stores were brands popular in the United States, such as Tiffany or Benetton.
What we saw: Plaza Mayor, located in the heart of the city, and Palacio Real, a 2,800 room residence that was home to Bourbon kings from Charles III to Alfonso XIII. The palace today Read more
PART 3: SPAIN AND PORTUGAL: HOW CENTURIES OF RELIGIOUS BATTLES LED TO ARCHITECTURAL WONDERS, SAVVY CUISINE, FRAGRANT WINES, AND THE HEROICS OF WHICH NOVELS ARE WRITTEN
OLIVE OIL, HEMINGWAY, FLAMENCO DANCE, AND TAPAS
In Part 2, Roman ruins, mountain-top castles, gypsy offerings, history rich from battles and architectural ingenuity
Parador de Ronda in the background while restaurants, hotels and homes sit precariously on the edge of the El Tajo Gorge
There are more than 300 million olive trees planted across Spain. Don’t tell Italy, but we were informed that much of Italy’s olive oils derive from Spanish olives. That was just a glimpse into the world’s largest producers of olive oil. On the road from Carmona to Ronda, our Odyssey Tour group stopped for a few hours at Basilippo Calidad Gourmet Olive Oil company in El Viso del Alcor, Seville, Spain for a hands-on experience of picking olives from the trees. Unfortunately, it turned out to be the only time we had Read more
PART 2: SPAIN AND PORTUGAL: HOW CENTURIES OF RELIGIOUS BATTLES LED TO ARCHITECTURAL WONDERS, SAVVY CUISINE, FRAGRANT WINES, AND THE HEROICS OF WHICH NOVELS ARE WRITTEN
SPAIN FURTHER AWAKENS OUR SENSE OF HISTORY, FROM CASTLES TO ICONIC CHURCHES
In Part 1, our tour of Portugal took us on a trip through Lisbon, Monsarez and Évora. The journey continues into Spain.
Roman Amphitheatre in Mérida
Mérida was a much too-short visit to one of the most fascinating attractions of our tour thus far. At least for my husband Russ and me. We’ve never been to Rome, so have never been to the remnants of the Roman Colosseum; therefore, the exploration of the Roman Amphitheatre and the Roman Theatre in Mérida was like being on the set of “Gladiator,” without having to watch the blood, gore and thumbs-down kill signs hoisted by a rabid audience.
While at the UNESCO World Heritage archeological site with our Odyssey Tour group, schools of Read more
SPAIN AND PORTUGAL: HOW CENTURIES OF RELIGIOUS BATTLES LED TO ARCHITECTURAL WONDERS, SAVVY CUISINE, FRAGRANT WINES, AND THE HEROICS OF WHICH NOVELS ARE WRITTEN
Belem Tower, Lisbon, Portugal,
PART 1: PORTUGAL
We travelled back to 13th century Portugal and Spain without having to step foot in a time machine or imbibing in mind-altering drugs. The trip began simply enough with an overnight stay at the Corinthia Hotel Lisbon, the first stop in our two-week trip with Odysseys Unlimited’s tour of historic lodging and architecture.
The tour is billed as Paradores & Pousadas, which means luxury accommodations resurrected from ancient monasteries, castles or city halls by governments eager to restore iconic structures reflective of Read more
BEST OF BUFFALO – PART 2, EATERIES, ATTRACTIONS AND DAY TRIPS
Anchor Bar, original creators of Buffalo wings, is crammed with memorabilia.
In Part 1, Architectural Icons Were Examined
Before I met my husband Russ, I would have looked at ornately-designed buildings or décor and thought, “How pretty” and likely that would have been the end of it. Married to someone who has taken me travelling internationally and domestically just to admire fine, sleek lines or fanciful carved motifs or intricately-patterned ceilings and has made a career from his knowledge and creative building skills, has turned my passing admiration into deeper appreciation for the art, skills and craftsmanship necessary to erect these structures. That so many cities have managed to preserve, restore and renovate buildings that could never again be (cost-effective) to be built in our lifetime is worthy of recognition. Buffalo is one such city.
Of course, having walked and gawked all day, one must eat to refuel energy. Just as architects and patrons of the arts have left their imprint on Buffalo, so have culinary artists who have created legendary dishes, such as Buffalo wings, that are (likely) known across the globe.
RESTAURANTS WE RECOMMEND
Panorama on Seven in the Buffalo Marriott Harborcenter was one of three places A Chamber of Commerce woman suggested we’d find the best Beef on Weck sandwiches in the area. What separates these three, including Schwabl’s and Bar-Bill Tavern, from others is that the seasoned meat is slow-cooked for hours, contrary to places that import frozen beef and then reheat at the last minute. For those of you not from Buffalo, Beef on Weck is a signature sandwich. Mounds of thin-sliced roast beef are piled onto a Kümmelweck bun, which is salted and caraway-seeded. The Panorama’s were served on sliders. Russ enjoyed the sliders and was eager to try the sandwich at Schwabl’s.
Schwabl’s began serving German-styled cuisine and Beef on Weck sandwiches 1837. Their current West Seneca restaurant is a step back in time. The waitresses might call you honey, the tables are close together, and you watch the chef slicing the meat on a counter, after Read more
BEST OF BUFFALO – PART 1, ICONIC ARCHITEC- TURE
Buffalo City Hall, one of the finest examples of art deco in the world
“You came to Buffalo for vacation?” was said with undisguised bewilderment each time my husband Russ and I were asked where we were from and why we were visiting Buffalo, NY.
Obviously, even the locals were oblivious to Buffalo being touted by travel publications as booming with resurgent pride. The primary attraction for us was the vast numbers of renovated and recycled historically-preserved architectural masterpieces. Second was the tour guide-worthy acclaim of what to see and especially what to eat, by well-travelled former Buffalo residents (Bob and Dianna Duffy and Mark and Laura Cosgrove) whose opinions we respect. Third, and quite important to Russ, was to tour the Darwin Martin House designed by Frank Lloyd Wright and to this day is being slowly and carefully restored to its original design.
Getting around downtown Buffalo is easy. A trolley that runs about every 15 minutes is free from Canalside on the harbor to Fountain Plaza in the center of downtown. Go past that stop and the fee is $2 unless you opt for a city pass. We took the clean, comfy trolley several times, but mostly walked.
Our hotel’s location next to the harbor and across the street from parks and attractions made getting around easy, especially because we had splendid weather all the while.
You enter the Buffalo Marriott Harborcenter on the seventh floor of the building, where registration, lobby and their restaurant/bar Panorama on Seven is located. The restaurant’s floor to ceiling windows overlook Lake Erie and harbor, parks, and decommissioned Navy vessels, now used as museums. For the seven nights of our stay, the bar area was always buzzing with activity.
http://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/bufbd-buffalo-downtown-marriott/
Before telling you about all the famous original Buffalo dishes we tried (in Part 2), here’s an overview of why we travelled to Buffalo and to report our expectations were not just met, they were exceeded.
Frank Llloyd Wright’s Darwin Martin House, his most iconic prairie -styled home.
LACK OF MONEY PREVENTED ARCHITECTURAL JEWELS FROM BEING DESTROYED AND MONEY RESTORED THEM TO LIFE!
Many tour possibilities exist to view the six-structure complex of Frank Lloyd Wright’s Darwin Martin House. We reserved the hour tour, which ended up being an intriguing two-hour guided examination of what is considered to be one of Wright’s most iconic Prairie-style homes, finished in 1905. A nine-minute film preceded the tour, illuminating the historic significance of Martin hiring Wright for such a prestigious commission after the architect’s success at designing the Larkin (Soap) Building, where Martin worked. Like the Martin house, The Larkin Building (designed 1903, completed in 1906 and demolished in 1950) contained innovations. The five-story office building had air conditioning, stained glass windows, built-in desk furniture, and suspended toilet bowls. The Martin House is a masterpiece of quality materials. The philosophy for the house was to bring the outside in through design elements. Signature stained glass windows have five distinct patterns, some distinctly flower-like. A porch is glass lined. Exterior staircase entrances are hidden behind decorative walls. Bookshelves Read more
WASHINGTON STATE WINE TASTING TRAVELS: WALLA WALLA WINERIES
It’s always a happy holiday with a Christmas tree of Dunham Cellars wine bottles
In Part 1, Yakima Valley Wineries were discussed
All photos by Russell Wagner
Two of the biggest decisions we faced when deciding to visit both Yakima Valley and Walla Walla wineries were where to stay for the easiest travel after a day of exploration and sipping, and which of the many wineries to visit of those we knew or had been recommended to us. There were far more wineries on our list than we could reasonably expect to actually drop into. Where to stay turned out to be Kennewick, because it sits roughly an hour’s drive between the two wine regions along accessible highways.
Next time we go (and after this visit it’s not an if, but definite), we may stay at the historic Marcus Whitman Hotel, a luxury lodging in downtown Walla Walla, built originally in 1927. All of us—Russ, his brother Randy and our sister-in-law Cher, relish historically preserved and revered architecture. This 133-room hotel, restored and reopened in 2001 represents the essence of elegance, sophistication and beauty from an earlier era. We did dine at The Marc Restaurant, named “Restaurant of the Year” by the Washington State Wine Commission, which I will happily rave about at the end of this blog.
With the question of where to stay on our current journey resolved, the next was where to do our tastings. Russ and I have been drinking wines from Walla Walla more frequently, discovering them at various tastings at home in Central Florida. Walla Walla has been recognized as an AVA (American Viticultural Area) since 1984. Two-thirds of the AVA is in Read more
WASHINGTON STATE WINE TASTING TRAVELS: YAKIMA VALLEY AND WALLA WALLA
Map of Yakima Valley, WA. photo by Russ Wagner
This latest visit to Washington wineries confirms what my husband Russ and I had already determined: we prefer bold and brash merlots, cabernet sauvignons, zinfandels, malbecs and syrahs.
Of course, there are other varietals and blends we are happy to wrap our tongues around (so to speak), which includes some crisp and clean whites and rosés, but give me a jammy red that fills my mouth with flavor and I am in my happy place. Which is why Yakima Valley and Walla Walla wineries jumped to the head of our “wine labels to explore” list.
Yakima Valley appellations – which include Yakima, Zillah, Prosser and the Red Mountain & Vicinity AVAs– is an 80-mile stretch of rural countryside. We focused our time in Red Read more
MEET ME IN ST. LOUIS FOR VINTAGE TRAINS AND LASER LIGHT SHOWS
Laser light shows light up the St. Louis Union Station Hotel every evening. photo by Russ Wagner
Vintage train travel evokes an atmosphere of retro sophistication, the clacking of wheels rolling over tracks, elegant club cars with linen-covered tables and plush chairs, and where the ultimate goal is less about the destination than the journey. That ode to yesteryear has emerged as one of the most comforting trends in alternative event venues.
One of the most recent to capitalize on that nostalgic environment is the St. Louis Union Station’s nine retrofitted train cars, housed under an open—air steel beam canopy soon to be transformed into an attractions park featuring food outlets, a 200” high observation wheel, light and fire shows, a fountain and an outdoor plaza. Already onsite is a Landry’s seafood restaurant and Hard Rock St. Louis.
On a recent trip to St. Louis with my train-fascinated husband, Russ, we were given a private tour of the four trains Read more
PATAGONIA: Part Five – Santiago, An Urban Awakening After Patagonia
Close up of The Masif under a brilliant sunrise. photo by Russ Wagner
April 1. April Fool’s Day and the biggest joke of the day was our group thinking our early morning LAN flight to Santiago, Chile would leave on time. We were at the Puerto Montt Airport by 8 am for a 10:15 flight. Technically, our airplane was there but it was somewhere above us circling above the dense fog that rendered anything beyond the glass windows just an opaque smoky haze.
The arduous pace our group has kept has taken its toll. Some are sick. Most of us are exhausted. The hours of fog-induced delay have pushed our schedule back. The plan to tour Santiago before our night’s activity became an hour stroll among crowded streets and an even more crowded plaza (watch out for the pickpockets!!). We spent little time in Santiago but my initial impressions are of a tattered-appearing city, overcrowded and ill-adept or disinclined to preserve their historical architecture. After a quick shower and change of clothes, we met inside the lobby of Hotel Atton Vitacura to find out which home we’d each be visiting for dinner with a local host.
Statue in plaza in Santiago, Chile. photo by Russ Wagner
As this was Russ and my first group tour, we didn’t quite understand what dinner with a local host meant. In this case, volunteers who are part of the Smithsonian community agree to host a home cooked meal for a designated number of people. As we came to understand, the host is provided requested provisions. Our group of four couples was assigned to Andrea, a well-travelled woman in her 30s who spoke fluent English. A driver picked each group up and delivered us to the respective front door. In our case, Andrea and her five-year-old (total cutie) son Read more
PATAGONIA: Part Four – Puerto Montt and Puerto Varas, the land of volcanos, salmon and a lake that thinks it’s an ocean
Close up of The Masif under a brilliant sunrise. photo by Russ Wagner
Our lake thinks it’s an ocean with a tropical storm pushing its waves into foamy peaks before it slams onto the shore. The lake is just across the street from the picture window of our room in the Gran Hotel Colonos del Sur in Puerto Varas, Chile.
It’s day 12 of our 18-day expedition to Patagonia with Smithsonian Journeys. Getting to Puerto Varas was tedious. Our group of 20 travelers from across the United States and Switzerland, as well as our illustrious Tour Director, Nick Tozer, left the iconic mountains of Torres del Paine National Park, drove three hours by coach to the Puerto Arenas Airport, flew two hours and then drove another half hour by comfy coach to our fifth hotel. Each hotel becomes progressively more modern, more beautiful.
View from our room at Gran Hotel Colonos del Sur, Puerto Varas. photo by Russ Wagner
Our travel was delayed yet again by a late LAN flight. So far they’re batting 100%. No flight has left on time.
We don’t arrive until 11 pm, still the dinner hour for many Latin Americans. Though we are a tired party, none of us turn down welcoming gestures of the bartender’s freshly made pisco sours and the chef’s homemade miniature empanadas. As if the delectable bites weren’t a treat, our room bears another plate of tasty bites: cheeses, nuts and slices of lunch meats. We nibbled, put the rest in the fridge, and decide this room, rich in creams and brown tones, was comfortably cozy. Maybe because the 98-room contemporary hotel is now a part of the Radisson Hotel family, we can flush toilet paper in the toilet! (If you don’t get my exhalation of joy, read Read more
PATAGONIA: Part Three – Torres Del Paine, One Of The World’s Most Beautiful Natural Wonders
The beauty of Patagonia outside our hotel window in Torres del Paine National Park
Google Patagonia, Chile and the iconic picture that pops up is likely of The Masif. Photos of the 10,000 foot high giant rarely do it justice, especially when you’re staring at its snow-bald cap under a startling blue sky streaked with puffy white clouds. Few get to see The Masif preening in all its glory. Mostly the base is visible under a heavy blanket of fog or grey rain. Once again, the weather gods were kind to our intrepid group.
We’d seen the Masif in the distance, but our six-hour bus ride from Punta Arenas (where we’d disembarked from our ship, the Stella Australis) brought us up close and personal. For the next few days, the rustic 95-room Hotel Rio Serrano, located near the entrance of Torres del Paine National Park, would be our home. Our
An early morning rainbow bursts from the mountain in Torres del Paine area, just outside of our hotel. photo by Russ Wagner
Smithsonian Journeys-arranged lodging backed up to a horse farm, green and gold grasses, glaciers glinting in the sunrise orange sky and a rainbow bursting from the cracks of steep craggy Read more
PATAGONIA: Part Two of a Series – To the End of the Earth in Ushuaia and Cruising Aboard the Stella Australis
The beauty of Patagonia outside our hotel window in Torres del Paine National Park. photo by Russ Wagner
Thousands of shipwrecked sailors’ bones are forever entombed in the turbulent sea crashing against Cape Horn, the 1,400-foot high promontory soundlessly monitoring the endless savage confrontation of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Gusty winds and roiling seas batter the tiny isle of Cape Horn, of which the fabled promontory is like a jutting chin facing down the world’s most treacherous waters. Naturalist Charles Darwin tried unsuccessfully in the 1820’s to do what our intrepid group of adventurous tourists accomplished; we landed and hiked on Cape Horn (National Park), the northern boundary of the Drake passage and the last spit of land before one reaches Antarctica.
We reached Cape Horn aboard the Stella Australis, a sleek white Expedition ship. But before our afternoon boarding of the elegant lady, our Smithsonian Journey’s Patagonian Expedition group of 20 spent two days in Ushuaia, the world’s southernmost city.
Usushaia, Argentina
There are many reasons why Patagonian adventures begin in Usushaia. It’s where our ship would launch.
It’s an easy ride to Tierra del Fuego National Park, a 155,676-acre nature preserve created Read more
PATEGONIA : Part One of a Series — Buenos Aires, Argentina
The beauty of Patagonia outside our hotel window in Torres del Paine National Park. All photos by Russ Wagner
Russ retched up to the moment we gingerly stepped into the zodiac that bounced in the rolling sea. If the Captain of the Stella Australis didn’t call us back due to a rapid gusting wind or sudden stormy skies, we would be among the few tourists this season to land at dawn on the legendary (Island of) Cape Horn (Cabo de Hornos), the last bit of land before reaching Antarctica.
But that historic (for us) landing was many days after our group of 20 international travelers began our 18-day Patagonia Expedition with Smithsonian Journeys. It was not an adventure I would have chosen, but it fulfilled my husband’s dream to travel to the ends of the earth to visit one of the most recognized beautiful and relatively primitive destinations left on earth. This was not a laid-back vacation, but an adventure for even seasoned travelers.
Like all journeys, this one began with travel. Over the course of the next 18 days, Read more
SCANDINAVIAN ADVENTURES: DENMARK, SWEDEN & ICELAND
Russ and me and the rainbow at Gullfoss Falls, Iceland
The opportunity to visit Copenhagen, Denmark began when a bright, red-headed newly-arrived exchange student from Denmark walked into the Merritt Island High School newspaper office and announced in perfect English that she wanted to participate. Little did I know then that my position as Editor and Else’s as Proof Reader (with her grammatically correct English) would form a bond that has endured more years than I wish to publicize.
It was her Facebook search, many exchanged emails catching up those years, and later a visit by her, her charming husband Erik, and their group of witty and affable golfing buddies visiting the Orlando, FL area, that culminated in my husband, Russ, and I selecting Copenhagen the next year as our next big adventure. Coincidentally, Else and Erik celebrated their wedding anniversary while here and we would be celebrating ours while there.
Once Russ began his meticulous research into Copenhagen and took the advice of our Danish friends to fly Icelandair, he received a package offer from the airline that was too tantalizing to ignore. If we stayed two nights in Iceland, a necessary layover between Orlando International Airport and Copenhagen, we would receive a reduced rate for the overall visit.
canal rides at Nyhavn, Copenhagen, Denmark. photo by Karen
Russ reserved rooms in Copenhagen and in Iceland’s capital, Reykjavik and then we told Else we were coming, hoping that for at least one of those days or nights, we’d be able to connect with them and our other new friends. We were overjoyed and overwhelmed by the generous invitations and detailed agenda plans Else sent, indicating that each day she and Erik would guide us through Russ’ assembled list of places to visit. Else included places that are insider’s treasures. She noted places and events for us to visit on our own and Read more
SCANDINAVIAN ADVENTURES: DENMARK, SWEDEN & ICELAND
Russ and me and the rainbow at Gullfoss Falls, Iceland
The opportunity to visit Copenhagen, Denmark began when a bright, red-headed newly-arrived exchange student from Denmark walked into the Merritt Island High School newspaper office and announced in perfect English that she wanted to participate. Little did I know then that my position as Editor and Else’s as Proof Reader (with her grammatically correct English) would form a bond that has endured more years than I wish to publicize.
It was her Facebook search, many exchanged emails catching up those years, and later a visit by her, her charming husband Erik, and their group of witty and affable golfing buddies visiting the Orlando, FL area, that culminated in my husband, Russ, and I selecting Copenhagen the next year as our next big adventure. Coincidentally, Else and Erik celebrated their wedding anniversary while here and we would be celebrating ours while there.
Once Russ began his meticulous research into Copenhagen and took the advice of our Danish friends to fly Icelandair, he received a package offer from the airline that was too tantalizing to ignore. If we stayed two nights in Iceland, a necessary layover between Orlando International Airport and Copenhagen, we would receive a reduced rate for the overall visit.
canal rides at Nyhavn, Copenhagen, Denmark. photo by Karen
Russ reserved rooms in Copenhagen and in Iceland’s capital, Reykjavik and then we told Else we were coming, hoping that for at least one of those days or nights, we’d be able to connect with them and our other new friends. We were overjoyed and overwhelmed by the generous invitations and detailed agenda plans Else sent, indicating that each day she and Erik would guide us through Russ’ assembled list of places to visit. Else included places that are insider’s treasures. She noted places and events for us to visit on our own and Read more
The Bahamas Are Like “That Box of Chocolates”: Every Island Is An Unexpected Treat
Diving off Andros Island, home to the largest number of blue holes in the world.
I’ve swum with the dolphins, but in The Exumas islands of the Bahamas, you can swim with pigs.
That was just one of many facts I recently discovered about the Bahamas at a press function sponsored by the Bahamas Ministry of Tourism Office and Diamond PR, and which was held at the award-winning Winter Park, FL restaurant, Ravenous Pig (any relatives in The Exumas?). Frankly, I’ve cruised to the Bahamas, shopped at the famous Straw Market in Nassau and have stayed at the Atlantis Resort on neighboring Paradise Island, so in my until-now uneducated mind, I thought I “knew” the Bahamas and what it was about.
How wrong I was.
Key West pink shrimp, Anson Mills Grits, green tomato chutney, chorizo oil and this Shrimp & Grits dish at Ravenous Pig tingled my taste buds. photo by Karen Kuzsel
I had no idea there are actually 700 islands, though just 30 of them are populated. I didn’t realize the 21-mile long New Providence, whose capital is Nassau, contains more than 60% of the population. I know the Bahamas are an easy trip from Florida, whether by ship or air, but was surprised to learn that 85% of their visitors are from the United States, many of whom are from colder climates seeking the more moderate temperatures of the islands. In fact, from September through May, Read more
ROAD TRIPPING THROUGH WASHINGTON, OREGON AND CALIFORNIA: ONCE THE WINE TASTING IS DONE, WHAT’S NEXT?
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The glass garden at (Dale) Chihuly’s Garden and Glass Museum in Seattle, WA. All photos by Karen Kuzsel
The best of intentions can go awry.
Maybe that’s why restaurants over-complicate recipes or hotels focus on the décor and not on guest services. I had the best of intentions to immediately follow up my blog story HOLY C.O.W! (The Wines of California, Oregon and Washington), published in September, with reviews of where to go, where to eat, and where to stay in those same states. Time slipped past like the shadow of an eclipsing moon. So, come into the light with me as I finally shine a spotlight on what places and activities are worth doing, and which ones you may want to forego.
Here’s the itinerary we followed. Russ and I began our trip in Seattle, WA, then moved on to Portland, OR before connecting with friends and family in Bend OR, Jacksonville OR, and then Oakland CA.
SEATTLE, WA
Renaissance Hotel downtown Seattle: Great location. Easy walking distance to many of the city’s main attractions. First impressions: dreary dark colors of burnt orange and muddy brown, especially for a lobby that had just been refurbished. We stayed in room 2308. Musty odor. Called for maintenance to get the AC running or to at least get the air in the room circulating to eliminate the stuffiness. Bottle water in room part of amenity. We had just travelled many hours and needed that water, but there wasn’t any. Both times calls to housekeeping brought prompt service but it wasn’t an Read more
BARBADOS: Scintillating Spirits, High Literacy, and Elegant Hotels
local produce and fresh herbs picked from the organic garden at Colony Club
Frankly, until I attended a press luncheon sponsored by Elegant Hotels and co-hosted by Diamond PR, I knew nothing about Barbados. Lucky you. I’m paying forward my newfound enlightenment.
For instance, do you know that this sovereign British Commonwealth in the Lesser Antilles is only 21 miles in length and 14 miles wide, yet has one of the highest literacy rates in the world or has 1500 rum shops within its borders? It’s true.
In 2013, the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO) acknowledged Barbados’ literacy rate at 99.7%. If you’re a fan of Mount Gay Rum, did you know the company is a sponsor of the Food, Wine & Rum Festival every November?
I didn’t know that the populace refer to themselves as Bajan, or that signature culinary dishes include macaroni pie (cheddar cheesier than typical mac & cheese and usually has unexpected ingredients such as ketchup and mustard), cou-cou and flying fish, coconut sugar cakes (made with those two ingredients) and salt bread, described as akin to an Irish soda bread.
I learned that the best time to travel there (if watching your dollars) is June through September Read more
NEW ORLEANS: SOUR NOTES AND SWEET SOUNDS
Can you spot the BBQ Shrimp & Grits in this dish? Neither could I. photo by Karen Kuzsel
Forgive me, Harry Connick Jr, but I was not jazzed up by my recent visit to New Orleans. Matter of fact, if I never return, it’ll be fine by me. Of course, my husband and I loved the beignets at Café du Monde, the Bloody Mary and Margarita at 801 Royal, and the two bands we enjoyed enough at 21st Amendment to return to each twice, but unsure most of the French Quarter was worth the aggravation, sour smells of rotting garbage, urine and vomit; streets clogged by construction and blaring horns; or having to tread very, very carefully with eyes looking down on broken sidewalks. Looking down isn’t advised in a city where we had multiple people intentionally bumping into us (hoping to pick our pockets?) or aggressively thrusting us toward their club, but after several stumbles, I decided looking down was the only way I could safely navigate.
Full disclosure here: I have only been to New Orleans one other time. I was honeymooning with a now-deceased husband and we got food poisoning our first day. We left the next day without really seeing much. I’ve always wondered what I missed.
This trip decades later was my husband Russ’ idea. When we travel, we focus on interesting architecture—usually historic in nature, local cuisine, and people watching. He eats very little seafood and gets sick from any shellfish. I like some Creole and Cajun cooking, but it does not rank high on my list of must-haves. I positively do not like enormous platters of heavy fried food, Read more
FLORIDA FUN: AN OVERNIGHT ESCAPE TO MELBOURNE AND CAPE CANAVERAL (at the Port)
Exploration Tower’s ode to the ocean hanging sculpture. photo by Karen Kuzsel
This begins my new “column” called Florida Fun. I realized when I was on this overnight getaway to Melbourne and Port Canaveral that I have written about many wonderful day trips, events, restaurants, adventures and venues, without drawing attention to them as tourist and group destinations within Florida and without including theme parks in the same breath.
Not that I don’t write about theme parks elsewhere in my blog or for magazines. I love theme parks. I consider myself a theme park-aholic without being obsessive, but I also realized how many Florida places I visit that perhaps others would enjoy knowing. So, here it is, the premiere of Florida Fun.
My husband and my recent 30-hour adventure began when he booked us into the Residence Inn Melbourne, located near Read more
FLIP THOSE EGGS! CARVE AN EDIBLE CENTERPIECE! PLATE THAT GOURMET MEAL OR DESSERT!
Two little apple lovebirds sitting in a watermelon of love. photo by Karen Kuzsel
Chef demo of making a Christmas tree completely of chocolate, including the glittery balls. photo by Karen Kuzsel
Sea life centerpiece. photo by Karen Kuzsel
Oh, and while you’re at it, do it within a specified time limit under the watchful eyes of judging chefs and other culinary world volunteers who are making sure you’re following the guidelines set forth in the Orange County Public Schools Annual Hospitality and Culinary Competition. After all, with 220 competitors registered for the hospitality or culinary portion of this 5th annual competition, each student will want to showcase his or her specialized skills for the maximum benefit.
As one of the judges who has watched this competition grow each year, I am in awe of the talent and training our future hospitality and culinary staff are receiving. Sure, they’re competing for trophies and awards that honor their school program as well as their own abilities, but what’s at stake could also be scholarships to college programs. The first year I judged, I tasted about 20 desserts beginning at 10 am. Let’s just say I was happily shifted, and where I’ve remained each year, to judging the final presentation of edible centerpieces. I watch them carve fruits, craft shapes and create vignettes from apples Read more
Booze, Golf and a Colonial Square: It’s not how your group meets and parties in North Florida…. It’s where you do it that counts
Bob Hope is honored with his own room at the World Golf Hall of Fame in St. Augustine, FL
With real estate, it’s location, location, location.
With travel destinations, it’s experience, experience, experience, especially ones not likely duplicated in your hometown. On a recent press trip to North Florida, I expected to see sand, sun and surf. What I got instead were experiences in unique venues that amped the good-times value meter.
Shanks for the Memories, Bob Hope
I don’t golf. I’ve had a few lessons, have wiggled my hips in my cute golf skirt trying to place my feet properly, and in my college days, flirted famously with the young pro so I could get a better physical education grade. And though I do know the stellar reputations or tidbits of salacious gossip about celebrity golfers, the game has never held my attention. So why was I standing in the Shanks for the Memories room of the World Golf Hall of Fame (WGHOF) in St. Augustine, riveted in place by a flood of memories?
Surrounding me were images of Bob Hope, a man whose movies I have watched repeatedly throughout my life and who I thought heroic Read more
WESTERN CANADA: A STIRRING JOURNEY
Lake Peyto, British Columbia, Canada–one of the world’s prettiest lakes.
Canada is not America.
I had to remind myself of that multiple times during our 10 day vacation to Vancouver and Banff.
Yes, we all speak English (unless you’re from provinces that are innately French in culture and language or come from a multi-lingual family), our coin currency does look faintly similar, we drive on the same side of the road (thank goodness), and both our geographic offerings run the gamut from mountains to beach and urban to rural.
Then I would come across something distinctly Canadian, such as a Bloody Caesar Vodka drink. Similar to our Bloody Mary, but using Clamato juice and often other embellishments. The best one I sucked down was at the famed Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel as we sunned on the deck of the hotel’s Walthaus pub, overlooking a gurgling stream running over rocks and a golf course whose water features would be a challenge for any player.
My husband, Russ, had read that the pub’s deck was a hidden treasure not too many tourists discover. Even many of the hotel guests don’t tackle the seven-minute walk from the ornate lobby to the European-styled building, with a fine dining Bavarian restaurant on the ground floor. We lucked out and snagged a table perfect for people and scenery watching.
Russ invariably tries out new ales. I read the description of their Caesar: a blend of olive juice, muddled pickles, Clamato juice, and vodka. The mug Read more
MISINFORMED BY THE VANCOUVER VISITORS CENTRE & CANADIAN GUIDEBOOKS NEARLY RUINED OUR LONG-AWAITED VACATION– AND HOW WHAT THEY DON’T TELL YOU CAN BE AS DAMAGING
Visiting Vancouver and Banff in British Columbia has been on my husband’s wish list for as long as I’ve known him.
Russ in Butchart’s Sunken Gardens. photo by Karen Kuzsel
His original thought was to journey through the Rocky Mountains of Canada by train, whistle-stopping through some of the most touted scenic landscapes of North America.
This summer it would finally be possible. Russ had meticulously researched for months, reading through consumer reviews and studying guidebooks. Although many train options exist, about three months before our scheduled departure, he switched gears. Our decision to rent a car, follow a similar route, and stop/eat/rest when we pleased for a fraction of the cost overrode the plan to ride the rails. Russ instead researched hotels, locations, car rentals, routes and must-see attractions.
Most of our trip exceeded our expectations and I will tell you about those glorious occasions soon in another post. This story is about one of the worst vacation experiences either of us has ever had, the misinformation we were told, how it was preventable, and how it may save you headaches in your own travels.
Our day of disaster began with the decision to visit Butchart Gardens, an idyllic setting near Victoria on Vancouver Island. Russ had read Read more
Castle Hotel Dresses Up For Corporate Business
Castle Hotel shimmers with royal attitude
There have been two stately Castles in Orlando. Both at one time have been pink, but unlike Cinderella’s Castle in Walt Disney’s Magic Kingdom, the Castle Hotel on International Drive encourages overnight stays. In fact, after the Castle Hotel became the 9th Kessler Collection boutique hotel to become part of the Marriott Autograph Collection on October 17, those overnights have gotten cozier.
Two of the 216 guestrooms have magically morphed into the three-treatment room Poseidon Spa and Garden Bistro. The remaining 214 threw off their mantle of yore and are now dressed in modern European furniture and soothing colors. The Castle didn’t shed its spires, turrets or twin rooftop balconies (some of the best viewing of area theme park fireworks and the perfect size for a reception for 120 max), but inside it now more closely resembles an upscale hunting lodge adorned in fine art work. Many pieces—such as the gorgeous chandelier hanging in the Palace Ballroom, came from Chairman and CEO Richard C. Kessler’s private collection.
Upon my visit to the grand re-launch of The Castle as the only Marriott Autograph Collection hotel on International Drive, I couldn’t stop drooling over the two rhinestone-encrusted black-and-white curved chairs enhancing the lobby. I have costumes (for my alter ego, Natasha, The Psychic Lady) that aren’t this bejeweled.
As with all 10 Kessler Collection properties in Florida, Georgia, Colorado, New Mexico and North Carolina, this one features local, regional, world-renowned and Kessler Signature artists. The $6.5 million, months-long renovation has repositioned The Castle from a luxury leisure property to one focused on attracting corporate business. There is now more than 9,000 sf in meeting and event space. The new Palace Ballroom can seat 180 in rounds. There is also the Read more
LOS CABOS: A MEXICAN FIESTA OF FOOD, FUN AND UNIQUE EXPERIENCES
Elegant dining at Cocina del Mar, signature restaurant of Esperanza, an Auberge Resort. photo by Karen Kuzsel
Los Cabos oozes exotic imagery like a romance novel set under vivid pink sunsets.
From the sultry summer heat beading one’s brow to the azure waves cresting and spilling onto pebbly beaches or splashing against the Easter egg turquoise water of infinity pools, this Mexican paradise on the southern tip of the Baja Peninsula defies typecasting. Most assuredly there are the expected iced margaritas, thrumming salsa music and platters of tacos and guacamole, but you won’t see men sporting sombreros or women swishing colorful peasant skirts.
Los Cabos is the Mexico of today’s visionary businessmen. Magazine cover-worthy resplendent resorts rise or are renovated at a dizzying pace. Stylized cuisine reflects the recent emphasis on organic farm and sea-to-table ingredients, and there’s an innate savvy response to what leisure and corporate business visitors find appealing, whether it’s Sea of Cortez water adventures, walking through the galleries crowding the narrow cobbled streets of San José del Cabo, or studying the hundreds of indigenous plants that form its landscape.
Many visitors flock to Los Cabos’ two main cities, Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo, in the hottest months of August through mid-October to take advantage of the lower rates, to fry by the pool, slurp frothy tequila or rum concoctions, and if on an inclusive plan, eat whenever they’re hungry. With the Resort Corridor an easy connecting road between the two cities, a night of clubbing or a day of shopping or snorkeling is never more than an hour away.
I was in Los Cabos in early October for a press familiarization trip sponsored by the Los Cabos Tourism Board. As much as I am accustomed to the hot, sunny and humid weather we encountered, I think next time I’d prefer from November to April when I’m told whales swim and frolick just offshore.
While the appeal for corporate and incentive groups may include some of the same elements that lure tourists, there are four factors that predicate group bookings.
- 1. Hoteliers say groups account for 50 to 80% of their business. Of that, roughly 70 to 80% are from California and Texas. The reason? Easy maneuverability through the San José del Cabo and an increasing number of direct flights from the U.S. Dollars are accepted currency. No need to worry about exchange rates.
- 2. Most resort hotels that cater to groups are boutique properties whose attentive service and exceptional safety considerations are notable. One such exclusive property is Esperanza, a 57-room Auberge Resort.During the recent G20 Summit in Los Cabos, President Obama was their honored guest.
- 3. Los Cabos temperatures average mid-70s all year and about 10 inches of rainfall, so inclement weather rarely disrupts events. Outdoor venues with the beach, sky or sea as stellar backdrops equal saved dollars on décor.
From the time I was picked up from the airport and through all of our adventures, we were escorted and given guided commentary by Tony Kayser, customer care manager for Epic Group, DMC/DCO, and her capable, amiable crew. Here’s what I liked most about them: they were always prompt and courteous. When each of us was to return to the airport, we were individually handed a card spelling out our name, pick up time and flight info. There was no fear that a driver would fail to greet me, as has happened on two other trips (but that’s a discussion for another day).
ADVENTURES
Chopping cilantro and garlic with Chef Enrique Silva at Huerta Los Tamarindos
Anyone who has ever read my blog posts knows how passionate I am about cooking, baking, and taking classes from chefs sharing their culinary recipes, so it should come as no surprise that my favorite adventure was at the 17-acre Huerta Los Tamarindos organic farm/restaurant and cooking school in San José Del Cabo.
Before we set about chopping, dicing, mixing and marinating our four course meal from just-picked produce and locally-sourced fish, Chef Enrique Silva gave us a rundown of how he converted a sugar cane plantation kitchen built in 1888 into this sought-after school. He described his role as co-founder of the Organic Market and member of the co-op Del Cabo, the first Mexican organic farm to export herbs and vegetables to the U.S. Tired of the myriad of rules and regulations needed for exporting, Silva now just sells locally.
His college degree was in agricultural engineering but his passion for cooking was learned from his mother. He follows culinary styles (Peruvian cuisine is trending) and refreshes his skills with visits to Oaxaca, considered the center of Mexican regional cooking. Staples of Oaxacan dishes include corn, beans and chile peppers, but local standouts include stylized tamales and varieties of mole sauce.
The farm is situated off twisting, narrow dirt roads. Dining is al fresco on a wide porch overlooking the fields of more than 100 vegetables and herbs and an event space for 250 under a canopy of cissus and passion fruit vines which act as a natural cooling shield. Next to one of the two kitchens is a small gift shop selling artisan goods, spices and canned goods prepared onsite. The restaurant menu changes every two months or with the harvest.
Los Tamarindos specializes in group cooking classes. The upper level outdoor kitchen we used, with a traditional pizza oven and a long community table for splicing and dicing, could hold 18. The kitchen in the grove can hold 85. In his typical team building challenges for about 10, recipes are assigned and teams then have to harvest and clean what they’re going to prepare. “One of our most popular quick team building challenges is making fresh salsa,” says Silva. “They have to pick, chop and plate the salsa for a blind tasting.” 100 max.
A toast of the house special lemongrass tea formally began our cooking lesson. Over the next two hours we prepared a spiced herb oil to marinate five different types of eggplants that we roasted (amazing the varied tastes and textures), an arugula and mango salad, a mahi al achiote and green rice entrée, and dessert of boiled and sweetened fresh pumpkin called dulce de calabaza. We refreshed our palette with the tea and tamarind margaritas rimmed in chile pepper. Do I need to tell you how delicious this meal and drinks were?
While you’re envisioning that, here are two of Silva’s cooking tips:
1. To add a smoky flavor to your food, bake whole peppercorns for 15 minutes in a 250-300 degree oven. Then grind the peppercorns as coarsely as desired. They rimmed the margarita glass and were sprinkled over our meal.
2. Mexican rice is fried first on a medium-hi heat for three to four minutes so it’s not sticky. The grains whiten and make a hissing sound to signal when to add water. Steam it, don’t drown it.
My second favorite adventure was speeding across the Sea of Cortez on a zodiac, heading to a rock-strewn area known for great snorkeling. Along the way, we took a brief side trip to view El Arco (The Arch), Cabo San Lucas’ iconic rock formation at the tip of the Baja Peninsula. One side is the Pacific Ocean and a section of beach known as Playa Divorcio (Divorce Beach) due to rough currents. Zip around the arch and you’re in the calmer Sea of Cortez. Nestled up to the base of the rocks is Playa del Amour (Lover’s Beach). Our host group, Cabo Adventures, prepped us on what our boundaries were for safety and what activities were available: snorkeling, kayaking, canoeing and paddle boarding.
This was only the 2nd time I have successfully snorkeled and only the first in open waters. (The other time was at SeaWorld’s Discovery Cove.) The salty water teared my eyes and I can’t name the colorful fish I spotted, but I loved it until our Cabo Adventures guide chummed the water so we’d see even more fish. I loved spotting them… just not having them literally on top of me! Did some kayaking, but the push of the waves battled my arms more than I was willing to endure for long, so I re-boarded the zodiac, drank lots of water and nibbled on the wafers and oranges Cabo Adventures provided.
One afternoon, a Terramar (DMC) guide led us around San José, a quaint town crowded with art galleries. We took a quick walkthrough Casa Natalia Hotel and Cocina Restaurant, a favorite venue of travel magazines like Conde Nast. A tiled walkway lined with dining tables elegantly clothed split the hotel’s overhanging balconies. Each bore baskets of colorful flowers and greens.
We passed by the famed Wirikuta Garden, home to over 1500 varieties of desert plants from around the world, but didn’t have time to stop this trip. The botanical garden has more than a million plants and three pyramids built from gigantic granite boulders.
Over the span of five days, I stayed at two resorts and visited two others. At each we dined and checked out the amenities. Each property’s uniqueness would appease particular tastes. In each case, privately-owned residences form an upper ring around the edges of the hotel. Those residences often handle overflow registrations.
PUEBLO BONITO SUNSET BEACH
The host hotel was Pueblo Bonito Sunset Beach, a sprawling mammoth complex that required calling for a cart to shuttle from one location to another when in a hurry. The carts were in perpetual motion, so waiting was never long. Sidewalks are only located near the lobby. Vacationers would love this complex. Seven beautiful landscaped pool areas, including their Sky Pool with a rain wall plummeting into the curved structure. Guests can choose inclusive or European plans. The latter means you’re paying for room only. As you should with any resort offering an inclusive plan, be aware of which restaurants are actual participants. Not all are. Also, there are only two free WiFi hot spots. Internet and cell service were almost non-existent.
Do try their upscale La Frida Restaurant, which is $20 a person extra if you are on the inclusive plan. The margaritas were terrific and the food great. The 80-seat restaurant resembles a traditional hacienda with heavy carved furniture in dark tones, an abundance of flowers, and live music. Oh, and check out their spa, Armonia. Unlike most resort spas in light, breezy colors, this one is low-lit with darker colors and stained glass sunbursts in the waiting area. They make their own toiletries under the Armonia brand.
ESPERANZA, AN AUBERGE RESORT
It doesn’t get much more exclusive and intimate than Esperanza Resort. The stunning 57-room boutique hotel’s most recent claim to fame is hosting President Obama when he attended the 2012 G20 summit in Las Cabos. That security level has attracted many world leaders and celebrities such as Jennifer Anniston. Even with the small number of rooms, there are seven outdoor venues. Each can hold up to 150 and small boardrooms can accommodate 40. Sales & Events Manager Hector Hernandez says, “Eighty percent of our group business hails from California. The two-hour flight from Los Angeles, our exclusivity and security are strong attractions.”
Every room comes equipped with binoculars during whale season.
You know those romantic foreign romantic movies where the loving couple is always dining al fresco on some tiled patio overlooking exquisite scenery? That’s just how I felt dining at Esperanza’s signature restaurant, Cocina del Mar. The patio area could likely accommodate a couple hundred, but niches were created to make small groups feel like they were alone under twinkling lights, overlooking the sea. We sat on the second curved tier of one section of the patio. There were a couple of larger areas with intimate dining to our left and then around the bend, a section for a larger group to have privacy. That night a bridal party had decorated everything in that latter area in pink, from the lights to their tablecloths.
We toasted the dinner to come with Sala Vivé, a sparkling wine made in Querétaro (central Mexico). From a menu created just for us and paired with appropriate adult beverages, I first chose Seafood Tortilla Soup with poached lobster, scallop shrimp, little neck clams, crispy tortillas and avocado. It was a delicate broth unlike any Tortilla Soup I’ve ever had. That choice was paired with the Sala Vivé. My entrée was called Inspiration, and it was. The chef’s grilled creation was served with D.O Valle de San Antonio of Chile, my preference over a Chardonnay. I was sure I was much too full for dessert until I saw the chocolate lava cake with cardamom ice cream and hibiscus-plum sauce. That arrived with a glass of Cream of Tequila from Oro Azul. I meant to just take a bite or two…
EL GANZO HOTEL
El Ganzo Hotel’s latest rooftop artwork. photo by Karen Kuzsel
The next day’s visit to El Ganzo Hotel in the Puerto Los Cabos area was filled with firsts. It was the first hotel I’d ever seen painted completely white. It was the first time I ever sat next to a rooftop concert stage to hear a Grammy-nominated singer perform, and it was the first time I I’ve ever visited a recording studio built inside the lower level of a hotel. Oh, it was also the time I ever tasted Tajín Clásico with lime, a popular Mexican seasoning that we liberally sprinkled in our margaritas and on fresh pineapple and coconut. (I was so impressed with the seasoning that I immediately sought a Mexican grocery on my return home to purchase it.) As I said: a day of firsts.
El Ganzo (meaning goose) is a living ode to art. The hotel opened in the Puerto Los Cabos area in December as the newest in the Grupo Questro Hotels family. El Ganzo caters to groups of about 150, with a clientele generally in the 30s to 60s and who are creative and appreciate art. (No one under 18 is allowed to stay there.) Creating a living monument to art is the motivation behind their artist and musician-in-residence programs.
“Think of El Ganzo as a blank white canvas,” says Ines Munoz, PR and business development director. “Each month we host two or three artists in residence. In exchange for their stay, the artists leave a piece of their artwork on a wall, door or furniture.” As each of the 72-guestrooms is imprinted with art, that artist’s name replaces the room number.
The musician-in-residence program swaps a stay and the opportunity to use the hotel’s underground, state-of-the-art private recording studio for a one-night concert. That’s how our group landed rooftop, stage-front seats for Mexican actress-singer Ximena Sariñana’s concert. I didn’t know what she sang as all but one song was in Spanish, but her warmth, congeniality, and tender ballads didn’t need interpreting.
Cleverly, the hotel records the concert for El Ganzo Sessions and then airs it on the Ganzo Channel, an in-house station available on each guest’s room television. Up next is a filmmaker and videographer-in-residence program to document the artists and musicians as they develop their work.
Many features about El Ganzo Hotel struck me as smart planning. When you step inside, you notice immediately the reclaimed wood and white walls, with occasional splashes of color from the artwork already finished. Each first floor guestroom has both a Jacuzzi tub in the bathroom and one on the balcony, overlooking the ocean. There are three restaurants, one of which is across the marina at the hotel’s Beach Club and accessible by a boat that shuttles back and forth all day.
Also across the marina and opposite the beach club, the hotel built a fisherman’s wharf. The fishermen have a nice place to hang out, clean and filet their fish says Rafael Sanchez-Navarro, director of sales & marketing for Grupo Questro. “They supply us with fresh fish for our restaurants.” The public has access to fishermen’s wharf and boats are frequently chartered for deep sea fishing. “We believe it’s very important to preserve the traditions of our community, not impose our ways on them,” says Sanchez-Navarro.
He says their beach area is one of the spots along the Sea of Cortez that is entirely swimmable, thanks to jetties that form a natural barrier. The hotel offers paddle boarding, kayaks, bikes and outrigger canoes. “Nothing noisy, like jet skis. We encourage a more natural environment.”
Note: Right now there are discounted pre-opening prices. Those rise in February, 2014.
WHAT’S COMING NEXT?
Before the end of 2014, Grupo Questro expects to build a recreated Mexican village with multiple restaurants, nightclubs and a museum around the marina. With the vision to attract larger conferences than the area has ever been able to support, Grupo Questro is also developing at least four new hotels around their marina, totaling more than 2,000 rooms, according to Sanchez-Navarro. Here’s what’s expected:
Secrets opens December, 2013, with 500 suites, a convention center and a ballroom with up to 8,000 sf that will be able to hold up to 800 people, theater style. Secrets will have ocean view restaurants and a golf course. The building resembles a modern hacienda.
JW Marriott opens the end of 2014 with up to 270 rooms.
Ritz Carlton Reserve opens in early 2015 across the marina from El Ganzo with 100 suites. The Reserve is a new brand for the Ritz Carlton family.
Grupo Questro also plans to open three more luxury boutique hotels, totaling about 400 rooms, on another section of the marina and if all goes well, a 500-room Fairmont will rise by 2016.
FIESTA AMERICANA GRAND LOS CABOS GOLF & SPA RESORT
Relaxing at one of the pools at Fiesta Americana Grand Los Cobos Golf & Spa Resort
Luxurious decadence was the 24 hours I spent at Fiesta Americana Grand Los Cabos Golf & Spa Resort. Never have I felt so pampered. Never have I had my favorite three tangible “loves”—amazing culinary creations, full-bodied yet silky-smooth red wines, and a massage that leaves one euphorically stupified, all come together in one glorious experience.
Fiesta Americana is 10 minutes from Cabo San Lucas and 15 from San Jose del Cabo. I didn’t come there to wallow in “me time” though. The property has a solid reputation for impeccable amenities that has make it popular for corporate and incentive gatherings.
Fiesta Americana is just one of 110 Grupo Posada properties, Mexico’s largest property investment group. “A planner once described us as having a leisure property with group amenities. It’s a perfect combination that will make our attendees feel like they’re on vacation,” says Mauricio Moncada, associate director of group sales.” The oceanfront resort caters to groups who book 150 to 200 rooms of the 249 available in both the main hotel and in the upper scale Grand Club section. I stayed in the Grand Clulb section, in one of 13 suites. Mine had two bathrooms, large bedroom and full living room. Most groups who come bring spouses, so extended stays are frequent. He says, “We don’t sell rooms. We sell experiences.”
Indeed they do. Take for instance their three-hour Barefoot Experience theme party. Moncada explains that a past GM created a unique party by combining the great wines of the Baja Peninsula region, treatments from Somma Wine Spa and their private, swimmable beach (a rarity on that coast, don’t forget). After guests remove their shoes, they are led to half-barrels filled with grapes… which they then stomp. Twenty minutes of foot reflexology is followed by a tasting of regional wines and dinner on the beach, with the chef centered in the midst of the group.
Of course, if you’re not one who likes getting sand in your toes, maybe you would prefer dining on the Whales Terrace at the Peninsula Restaurant, so named because “From November to the beginning of April you can have lunch and watch them swim by,” says Moncada. 150 max, banquet style.
Wine pairings are de rigueur for group events, but how about ice tea pairings, an invention of Chef Gerardo Rivera to spice up luncheons. While Moncada and I sat on the Peninsula Restaurant terrace, gazing at the waves breaking against the shore, we dined on a customized four course meal, each paired with tea. We began with peach tea and cerviche, simply the best I’ve ever had. That was followed by the lightly breaded, delicate flavors of pirate fish and shrimp taco served with Bugambilia (bougainvillea) tea. Third course was seabass with beans, cactua and chilo ancho accompanied by green tea with ginger. Vanilla tea, cardamom ice cream, chocolate and strawberries finished the meal (and me) off.
The group experience at Fiesta Americana actually begins with registration at a private reception area, an automatic amenity earned with a confirmed booking. The area is an open expanse of marble tile in soft earth tones. Moncada says they shiatsu massage chairs and hospitality tables can be brought in for the welcome. Occasionally the golf concierge will be provided. “We’re in the Cabo del Sol development with two golf courses: ocean and desert courses. Both are designed by Jack Nicklaus. Golf can be charged to the master account for convenience to planners so they only have to pay one bill and not many.”
Fiesta Americana has two boardrooms, one with desks in a u-shaped setup that remain fixed and one room that is bare. Two ballrooms totaling 10,900 sf have 21’ ceilings. Both have natural lighting, beautiful woods and overlook the Sea of Cortez. One of the cleverest ideas I’ve ever seen a resort do is that Fiesta Americana keeps one ballroom set up with tables and décor highlighting their various themes, such as Oaxaca night, mystic night, a night under the stars, or the popular barefoot experience . On the wall, holographic video footage screens teasers of the fun that could be had with each theme. Outside The Grand Slam ballroom is the Fairway Terrace, a favorite location of group breakfasts and luncheons of up to 300. One level below, the smaller Star Terrace overlooks both the ocean course and the ocean. 120max.
Fiesta Americana is horseshoe shaped. All the rooms have balconies with a view and include both a tub and a shower. The palette is done in contemporary shades of sand and earth. There are three restaurants and three bars, each with ocean views.
One of the perks of my job is to experience spa experiences and write about them. (I you’re your whispers of “Poor you,” but someone has to do it.) Somma Wine Spa is my idea of the perfect spa. They use grapes from the Guadalupe Valley and Santo Tomas area of Baja California to fuse into their oils and lotions. I had the 80-minute Le Vin, the resort’s signature massage. Chardonnay grapes were used in the oils that were generously applied to my body using a combination of Swedish, mio-intensive and lomi-lomi techniques. When the treatment ended, my legs felt as rubbery as if I’d just walked off a speeding boat. My therapist rang a sweet gong to reawaken my chi and then escorted me to the lounge, placed a warm coiled towel beneath my neck, and asked whether I’d like a glass of red or white wine. It arrived with a creamy cheese ball and frozen green grapes.
If I had my way, I’d spend days in Somma Wine Spa trying out exotic treatments such as the Choco-Coco Wrap (from the cacao seed) that begins with a mint-white chocolate and coconut granule exfoliation, followed by a cocoa mask and moisturizer. Or maybe I’d want to do the coffee extract and seaweed wrap, or maybe the Chardonnay Clay Wrap or the Lambrusco Red Wine Wrap.
Fiesta Americana was a treat… one I’d love to repeat.
www.huertalostamarindos.com
www.visitloscabos.travel/
www.loscabosguide.com/epicloscabos
www.esperanzaresort.com
www.pueblobonitosunsetbeach.com
www.elganzo.com
www.fiestamericanagrand.com
www.cabo-adventures.com
www.terramardestinations.com
Karen Kuzsel is a writer-editor based in the Orlando area who specializes in the hospitality, entertainment, meetings & events industries. She is a Contributing Editor-Writer for Prevue Magazine and is an active member of ISES and MPI. She writes about food & wine, spas, destinations, venues, meetings & events. A career journalist, Karen has owned magazines, written for newspapers, trade publications, radio and TV. As her alter-ego, Natasha, The Psychic Lady, she is a featured entertainer for corporate and social events. karenkuzsel@earthlink.net; www.ThePsychicLady.com. @karenkuzsel; @thepsychiclady.
ART IS AS SPICY HOT OR SOOTHINGLY SWEET IN SANTA FE AS NEW MEXICO’S CHILE PEPPERS
Native American statue on Museum Hill, Santa Fe, NM. photo by Karen Kuzsel
The rich, the famous and the infamous pinned Santa Fe, NM to the pages of history, but it’s the arts that have solidified its reputation for the future. Whether we’re talking about paintings, sculptures, Native American handcrafted jewelry, bohemian clothing, books, movies or its distinctive cuisine, Santa Fe’s art rises from the desert floor like scented steam from one of its many spiritually sacred spas. You can see it. You can breathe it. But what matters is how it makes you feel.
The Southwestern city of 70,000 is a smorgasbord for the senses wrapped in an eclectic blanket of Spanish, Cowboy and Native American influences. It made me feel alive, refreshed, awakened, attuned, energized and wired during my recent visit. (And that’s without the light-headedness that comes from being at 7,000-ft elevation. Drink water until you feel squishy to avoid headaches or nausea.) I felt it immediately upon reaching the city limits, an hour’s drive from the easy-to-maneuver Albuquerque International Airport (20 from the Santa Fe Airport) and saw how the zoning-mandated and culturally-authentic brown adobe buildings that blend seamlessly into the inescapable desert terrain also serve as a blank canvas to the vibrant displays of art bursting like wildflowers in the Spring.
In this flourishing city now ranked as the third largest art market in the world, there are 250 art galleries (more than a 100 of which cram the one mile stretch known as Canyon Road), 250 restaurants, 1,400 (mostly boutique) hotel rooms, and statues elegantly defining its cultural roots. My beaded braids, gypsy attire and personal spirited philosophy of life fit into the landscape as if I were a resident.
The core of the oldest U.S. Capital city, established in 1610, is a squared plaza and the oldest marketplace in the country. Across the street, Read more
OZARK MOUNTAINS STEEPED IN DIVERSE TASTES AND CULTURAL TEXTURES
Goat cheese salad with Yukon gold potatoes from James at the Mill, AR. photo by Karen Kuzsel
The last things I expected from a weeklong trip to the Arkansas Ozarks were haute cuisine or elegant, preserved Victorian architecture in a city seemingly populated by a contrasting mix of retro hippies, spiritual wellness gurus and European fashionistas. Nor did I expect to be awed by the largest museum in the country dedicated to American art.
So, you’re probably wondering what I did expect. My husband and I were in AR for a family vacation. Usually when visiting those family members we stay in the Little Rock area. From those repeated trips, I can testify that none of the restaurant meals we’ve eaten would even be considered mediocre by Orlando standards. This time we were meeting family in the mountains, to lodge for four days in a cabin not far from the Buffalo River. To translate that into terms most of you will relate to, we were miles from the nearest cell phone service and a good half-hour drive to a grocery store.
The cabin was loaded with amenities like cookware (no dishwasher), flat screen (DVD’s,no TV), comfy bedding, plush towels and the requisite dead animal skins and carcasses lining the two-story dark wood walls. The weather was chillier and grayer than hoped for, but not as bad as predicted. (Do weathermen ever get it right?) We soaked in the hot tub, charred s’mores over the outside fire pit, hiked to waterfalls over rocky terrains and steep slick steps, read, played games, and spent quality time with one another.
All that was terrific, but what I want to share is the Arkansas I didn’t know was there.
My husband is a primo travel guide and arrangements-maker. He studiously researches roadways, attractions, weather patterns Read more
THE LAND OF FLOWERS, BUTTERFLIES & TRUMP OCEAN CLUB SOARS INTO PROMINENCE
Perfect parties are held at Tejas’ private deck overlooking the Pacific Ocean. photo by Karen Kuzsel
When the invitation to attend a press trip for Panama arrived, I immediately thought how cute I’d look in one of those darling Panama hats and that I’d finally get to see the famed Panama Canal that was the highlight of one of my parent’s many cruises. Not until after I arrived on COPA Airlines into Panama (a three-hour direct flight from Orlando) did I discover that those Fedora hats worn famously by Winston Churchill, Harry Truman, Franklin Roosevelt, Humphrey Bogart or Gary Cooper, were actually Ecuadorian Read more
Napa City: a gem in the heart of Napa Valley
PART 2: where to stay
In the first of this three-part series on Napa City, in the heart of the famed Napa Valley, I told you what to see and do in this city of 75,000. In Part 2, the focus is on lodging, from intimate B&B’s to grand resorts.
The history of Napa Valley and Napa River plays out in a meandering river of Italian mosaic tile leading to this fountain and the Napa River Inn. photo by Karen Kuzsel
An intricately-woven mosaic-tiled river meanders lazily across the outside courtyard of the Napa River Inn, telling the history of Napa as it routes to a steep climb up and across a bubbling fountain, designed and constructed by Napa artist Alan Shepp. The Italian glass-tiled mosaic led from the Napa General Store (originally a mill)– where my party had just eaten a hearty breakfast in the middle of the store, and across the courtyard, where we were headed outside to gaze at the Napa River. My first thought was what a charming place to hold a reception. In fact, the Napa River Inn frequently uses the exquisite courtyard for receptions up to 250 people. My personal preference when travelling is to stay at B&B’s, particularly those with quaint, historic charm, individually-decorated rooms, lavish custom breakfasts with hot-from-the-oven muffins and piping hot coffee, and other amenities that make me feel as if I’m partaking in an experience I couldn’t find elsewhere. While larger than a typical B&B, the pet-friendly 66-room Michelin-starred independently-owned boutique hotel (the only one in Napa) qualifies for stardom on so many other levels. The re-imagined 1884 Hatt Building now houses three separate buildings, individually decorated and themed. I lost my heart in the Victorian-era decorated building with its beaded lamps, laced curtains, and dark wood furniture. Although small corporate groups and wedding parties succumb to the beauty of the Hatt Hall as an event space, with its 14’ high ceiling of original pressed tin Read more
St. Kitts: a Caribbean treasure ripe for discovery
I’ve never been to Aruba, St. Martins, St. Thomas or Nevis (St. Kitts’ smaller, sister island), which are some of the area’s better-known vacation draws, so can’t tell you how St. Kitts compares. What I do know is that if you’re a history buff or botanist, a connoisseur of unusual foods (provided your point of reference are U.S. supermarkets and farmers markets), love sailing on a brisk catamaran at sunset under usually-clear skies, browsing among affordable quaint shops with batik attire and colorful coconut shell jewelry, dancing to calypso music at late night local clubs, or Read more
HOTELS SPRUCE UP DÉCOR AND INCENTIVES
A wise woman once said to me that the best time to advertise is when the economy is down. Yes, you’re spending money you may not have, but the visibility offered may be the key to outlasting your competitors. Hotels are finding this a perfect time to refurbish and to offer incentives to financially-weary travelers looking to maximize their vacation budgets. Here are a few of whom you may want to pay attention.
The Plantation on Crystal River
Tucked away along Florida’s Nature Coast, an easy trek just 80 miles north of Tampa, this eco-friendly resort caters to people who want to swim with the manatees in their natural surroundings or perhaps to rent a pontoon or hire a guided fishing charter. When their $3 million facelift completes by Jan. 15, the refurbished lobby will showcase updated lighting, and furniture in muted blues and greens, splashed with warm yellows and oranges. No worries about the winding wooden staircase, it’ll remain, but the new contemporary lobby bar will feature a “grab and go” coffee bar, black and white artwork showcasing the scenic river, new booths and stained concrete floors. Included in the refurbishment are the 196 guest rooms, eight junior suties and the 2,304-sf meeting space Read more
England Dresses Up Its Past In Architectural Couture
(This story was originally written for Prevue Magazine)
Steamy puffs mist lazily over bathers in the 92-degree open-air pool of the Thermae Bath Spa before escaping over densely-packed gabled rooftops little changed since the legendary healing waters of Bathfirst drew international disciples. More than 200 years after Thomas Gainsborough’s initial exhibition at the Royal Society of Arts and Jane Austen memorialized Bath in her novels, people still flock to Thermae for the same healthful benefits anticipated 2000 years ago when the Romans sank their war-weary bodies into Britain’s original natural thermal spa.
The only accessible outlet for the purifying 115-degree water bubbling up from underground, Thermae Bath Spa preserved five historic structures while capitalizing on patrons’ needs for modern amenities by erecting the New Royal Bath, a three-story contemporary glass edifice housing more than 50 spa treatment rooms. Treatments range from Watsu (a soothing therapist-guided experience through the smoothly mineral-rich waters) to exotic body wraps such as the Green Coffee slim & tone, Read more
5 Stars for Ravella's Food & Spa
Ravella at Las Lake Vegas
You know that old adage: which comes first, the chicken or the egg? For my recent journalists’ junket to Ravella at Lake Las Vegas, it was more like: the cuisine or the spa? Both were divinely delicious with a strong propensity towards nurturing health and wellness of mind, body and spirit by infusing the senses with an organic aromatherapeutic remedy.
In the interest of being the equal opportunity purveyor of opinions, I’ll lay out the facts. You decide.
My involvement as an entertainer and as a journalist for the meetings & events, entertainment and hospitality industries garners lots of opportunities to sample tasty treats from chefs of diverse backgrounds, ethnicities, and reputation. I certainly wasn’t expecting foodie nirvana at a tucked-away resort on the outskirts of Vegas.
Actually, to be truthful, I wasn’t expecting to wind up at a literal oasis in the desert, minus any maurauding nomads or sandstorm-swept flies in my face. Read more